DESIGN-A-PATTERN CHARTING PROGRAMS
E-Mail
questions to Ileen’s Needle Nook
(website www.ileen.com)
USER’S MANUAL TABLE OF
CONTENTS
(Click
on Selection)
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GENERAL DESIGN-A-PATTERN INFORMATION |
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SCREEN MENU AND BUTTON DESCRIPTIONS |
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DESIGN-A-PATTERN PROGRAM INFORMATION |
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Volume #1 |
Volume #2 |
Volume #3 |
Volume #4 |
Volume #5 |
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COMPUTER SYSTEM
PC compatible computers (486 or faster CPU) running Microsoft Windows® (3.1,'95, '98, ME) with SVGA or better video capability is recommended. Although programs are designed for 640x480 or 800x600 small font video drivers for best screen resolutions, they are automatically adjusted for higher resolution drivers. To adjust earlier versions of these programs which were affected by selecting large fonts at higher screen resolutions, use 640x480 resolution or adjust to Normal Fonts using Desktop Display Properties in Windows.
Graphics and text printouts rely on existing Windows print drivers used by your system. Refer to your Windows manual if you need more information for your printer.
PROGRAM INSTALLATION FROM ORIGINAL DISKS
Program files are provided on 3.5 inch floppy disks containing compressed files that must be expanded to the hard drive using 'SETUP.EXE'. Files require ~3 Mb of hard drive space for all 5 volumes. It is always good practice to back-up floppy disks before transferring files to a hard drive.
Windows '95,'98, ME: Click START and RUN. Enter A:SETUP.EXE for installation.
Windows 3.1: Use File Manager to list files on the DESIGN-A-PATTERN disk, and double-click SETUP.EXE
Compressed files are expanded to the hard drive directory (default = C:\KNITWIN), and a Wizard program icon is created for DESIGN-A-PATTERN. Files include:
Ø KNIT1WIN.EXE (or KNIT2WIN, KNIT3WIN, KNIT4WIN, KNITBABY main program files)
Ø SETUP.EXE (installation file to expand/copy files to KNITWIN directory)
Ø SELECT.EXE (Main menu program to select installed Design-A-Pattern programs)
Ø
UM.HTM (Hyperlinked user's manual with
assorted supporting graphic files (requires web browser))
Ø MANUAL.WRI (On-line user's manual for systems without Internet Explorer or Netscape browsers)
Ø CHART_.TXT (Measurement charts & sizing instructions that can be printed from the programs)
Ø SET_IN.TXT & SET_IN.DP1 (and other text & pattern information file examples)
Required system files (shown below) are copied from the installation disk or Windows System directory into the program directory (KNITWIN) to avoid conflicts with existing system files on your computer.
VBRUN300.DLL, VER.DLL, DDEML.DLL, CMDIALOG.DLL, CMDIALOG.VBX, VSVIEW.VBX, PBRUSH.EXE or MSPAINT.EXE, WRITE.EXE or WORDPAD.EXE, THREED.VBX, SPIN.VBX, PRINTER.EXE, EDITOR.EXE
PROGRAM
OPERATION OVERVIEW
(TOP)
CLICK THE WIZARD BUTTONS to start programs (or enter copyright digit on request).
All Design-A-Pattern programs consist of five major screens:
A. Information Screen (Main Screen)
Ø Select styling options
Ø Enter yarn and pattern information
Ø Enter, retrieve or save garment measurements
Ø Select pattern text or graphic output screens
Ø View panel graphics and text pattern directions
B. Size Adjustment/Calculation Screen
Ø Adjust measurements to give desired shaping
Ø Calculate panel row and stitch directions
C. Graphics/Grid Screen
Ø Draw finished pattern panels (with & without grid or measurement options)
Ø Send/Load panel graphics or motif grids to/from Paintbrush for editing
Ø Save or Copy panel graphics or motif grids to disk or clipboard
Ø Print any displayed panel graphics and key row/stitch directions
D. Text Editor
Ø Edit pattern directions selected from information screen
Ø Save finished pattern text files to disk or clipboard
Ø Send edited pattern directions text to the Print Screen or Word Pad.
E. Preview + Print Screen
Ø Preview
and print pattern text using Windows Print Manager
PROGRAM
OPERATION STEP-BY-STEP EXAMPLE
(TOP)
All programs operate with the following sequence of menu and button selections. This sequence was used to create the attached pattern text and graphic example from volume #1.
Information Screen (Main Screen)
1. Use the STYLE menu to select a style (Set-in Capsleeve used for example).
Note: The neckline menu is inactive until style is selected.
2. Use the NECKLINES menu (except vol #2 for skirts and pants) to select front and back styles. Selected necklines can be changed from this screen or adjustment screen. Note: The information menu is inactive until necklines are selected.
3. Use the INFORMATION menu to enter yarn gauge information from your swatch. Choose Automatic Entry if you want to enter pattern information. Individual items can be entered or changed by clicking the desired item box. Sizing Menu and Button Panels are activated when yarn gauges are entered. Default yarn gauge (11 rws/inch & 7 sts/inch) can be changed when prompted by the program. Yarn Gauges must be entered before measurements. The maximum number of needles on one side of the machine can be entered after entering gauge information (default = 100 needles).
4. Use the SIZING menu to enter new, retrieve old or select starter measurements.
Note: Information screen panels are displayed after sizing data is entered.
If you select New Measurements, enter new sizing from your Measurement Chart which should be filled out in advance. You will be prompted in sequence to enter data with suggested sizing based on key measurements. To change an entry, use the Adjustment Screen after entering all prompted measurements.
Select Starter Sizes for approximate measurements in volumes #1-#4 to change on the Adjustment Screen to your sizing. Starter measurements should NOT be used as standard sizing since very few people have 'standard' measurements. In DAP for Babies and Dolls, Starter Sizes were developed from children and doll garments. Although children garment sizing is often inconsistent, finished measurements in Starter Sizes provide a good basis if actual measurements are unavailable.
Size Adjustment/Calculation Screen
5. After sizing is selected, the program loads the adjustment screen automatically. Sizing adjustments (0.1 increments) are made with spinner controls or left-clicking number boxes to increase measurements in 0.25 increments (hold the shift key while clicking to decrease). Selected numbers can also be changed from the keyboard.
6. Click the pencil button or left-click any panel picture to re-draw the screen for your adjustments. Choosing new styles or shaping automatically updates the panels.
Note: Sleeve shaping (straight, curved, rounded) can be added except in vol. #2. Hip shaping (straight, curved, rounded, high waist) can be added in vol. #2.
7. When panel pictures are acceptable, use the menu, Wizard button or right-click panel pictures to calculate rows and stitches. Panels will be colored as rows and stitches are calculated from black pixels on the white screen for precise directions. Computer speed, panel sizes and yarn gauges determine calculation time.
8. After calculating rows and stitches for ALL panels, use the Return Button or Exit menu to go to the information screen, text editor or graphics screen. Although the sequence doesn't matter, Pattern Text will be selected first in this example.
9. Full row-by-row pattern text is shown on the Main Screen. It can be edited and printed directly from the Main Screen or Text Editor. Different printout options (such as separate panels, Top-to-Bottom vs Bottom-to-Top directions, short estimated directions, Cut-N-Sew information) can be chosen from the TEXT button above the text window. This example will edit Full row-by-row directions from the Main Screen.
10. Knitting directions displayed on this screen are used to select and preview the text printouts. This text can be sent to the Printer, Text Editor, Clipboard, Disk or Windows Word Processor by clicking the appropriate button or menu selection. For this example, text will be sent to the Text Editor.
11. Text can be added or edited before saving or printing the text file using the menu bar or button bar. We prefer using WORD PAD or CLIPBOARD to send the text to a word processor for pasting Panel Graphics into the printout.
12. Click the RETURN button, and select the GRID SCREEN button on the Main Screen for this example.
Graphics/Grid Screen
13. Panel pictures with measurements are automatically displayed on the Grid Screen. To change the grid option, click the DRAW button or panel pictures to select full vs. outline grid, rows/sts vs. inches/cms, or enlarged 1x1 full grid overlay). Sample printouts are attached for several options.
Note: The default grid increment generally gives best results, but it can be adjusted for the the number of rows and stitches in your panels.
14. Click PRINT Buttons (BODY, SLEEVE, SCREEN PRINT) to preview the full page graphic printout. Key text directions are added to the panel graphic. Click PRINT on the Print Dialog Box. If you click CANCEL on the Print Dialog Box, the displayed graphic can be saved or copied to the clipboard using buttons above the graphic. Click the DRAW button or panel picture to return to normal pattern graphics.
15. Use the exit menu or RETURN button for the Main Screen or Adjustment Screen..
Information Screen
16. Measurements and/or pattern information can be saved using the Save Sizing button. Files should be saved to the program directory as *.SZ_ (for sizing) or *.DP_ (for pattern data). Files can be saved to floppy disks by changing to the 'A' drive. Loading files automatically lists *.DP_ and *.SZ_ files. If other suffixes are used, file selection should be changed to all files (*.*). Files saved from the wrong program will be rejected if selected. Pattern data is automatically saved as "LASTINFO.DP1" when exiting the program.
ADDING MOTIF GRAPHICS TO 1x1 PANEL GRIDS
(TOP)
There are many ways to create DESIGN-A-PATTERN panel shapes and grids for adding graphic art in Windows PAINT. There are also many ways to print or save the final picture of the graphic on the panel. The simplest way to create a full-page panel with 1 x 1 stitch row grid using the PAINT program (at least Windows '98) is described below.
Create a Panel Graphic in DESIGN-A-PATTERN
1. Start DESIGN-A-PATTERN, and enter your style and measurements for Adjustment Screen changes and row/stitch calculations.
2. Use the Adjustment Screen Exit Menu to load the Pattern Graphic Screen.
3. Click the ZOOM Button for a full page expanded body panel with 1x1 grid.
Transfer the Body Panel to Windows PAINT for Adding Motif Art
4. Click the EDIT Button, and select TO PAINT from the dropdown menu.
5. When the program asks if you want an expanded body panel, click YES. If you click NO, it will ask if you want an expanded sleeve panel to PAINT.
6. The body panel will appear in the PAINT program.
Place Motif or Clip Art on the Body Panel Graphic
7. Click the IMAGE menu and the DRAW OPAQUE option to deactivate it (no checkmark).
8. Click the EDIT menu, and select PASTE FROM. This lets you select a BMP, JPG or GIF file from any directory to insert on the Panel. Remember to set file types to ALL PICTURE FILES on the bottom of the Open File dialog box.
9. When the selected file appears, move and size it as desired by using the handles on the edge of the picture.
Replace 1x1 Grid on Top of the Graphic
10. Be sure the Upper Left corner of the expanded panel is in its original position (use the Scroll Bars if needed).
11. Click the EDIT menu, and select PASTE FROM. When the Open File Box appears, go to the DESIGN-A-PATTERN directory and select 'PAINT.BMP'. This file was created by DESIGN-A-PATTERN when it loaded Windows PAINT.
Save the Panel Picture
12. When the overlay is complete, save the file as PAINT.BMP if you want to print it from DESIGN-A-PATTERN. You should use a different name and/or file type if you want to save it for other programs (like WORD).
13. EXIT Windows PAINT, and return to the DESIGN-A-PATTERN graphic screen.
Print Panel Picture from DESIGN-A-PATTERN
OPTION
#1 (Full page with key row/stitch info added)
14. Click the EDIT Button, and select FROM PAINT from the dropdown menu. Click 'YES' when asked if you want the Body Panel.
15. When your pattern appears, click the PRINT Body Panel button.
OPTION #2 (Full page without information added)
14. Click the EDIT Button, and select LOAD BITMAP from the dropdown menu.
15. When the dialog box appears, open the 'PAINT.BMP' file from the DESIGN-A-PATTERN directory.
16. Click OK to print the pattern.
SHAPE
EDITING FEATURE (Volume #3 & #4)
(TOP)
Volumes #3 and #4 offer the option to edit garment shaping before calculating rows and stitches on the Sizing/Calculation screen. This is best used for special sleeve and neckline shaping. It MUST NOT be used to change overall garment length or width. Follow these directions to edit shaping (sleeve panel used for example).
1. When sizing is complete and panel pictures are drawn, click "Save .BMP File", and click the prompt button to save the sleeve picture. This will create a file called "CHANGE.BMP" which is loaded into Windows Paintbrush (or MSPaint).
2. Erase the right side of the sleeve picture from armhole to cuff. Re-connect the ends with a curved line (S-shape used). Only change the right side must be changed since Design-A-Pattern automatically adjusts the left side to the same shape.
3. Save the file (must be saved as "CHANGE.BMP"), and exit to Design-A-Pattern.
4. Click the "Load .BMP File" button to replace the existing panel picture, and calculate the sleeve panel to generate special shaping directions. If you decide not to use this shaping, re-draw original panels by clicking "DRAW" or either panel.
YARN
GAUGE DETERMINATION
(TOP)
To properly convert custom body measurements to garment sizing, a tension swatch must be accurately made to determine row and stitch gauges for knitting. Gauges are affected by type of yarn, machine tension settings, stitch patterns and laundering/blocking. Use the following instructions to prepare accurate yarn swatches.
Row & Stitch Gauge Measurement
a. Cast-on 50 stitches, and knit 10-12 rows at the preferred tension.
b. Knit 2 rows of contrasting color yarn to mark a starting point for counting rows.
c. Reset the row counter to 000, and knit 60 rows before knitting 2 more rows of contrasting color yarn.
d. Hang marker threads on rows 20 and 40 at needle #21 on both sides of the machine.
e. Knit another 10 rows before binding off the swatch.
f. Pull the swatch to stretch the stitches into shape, and wash it as you would the garment.
Note: Swatches should always be blocked before
calculating gauges.
g. Lay the swatch on a flat surface, and accurately measure distance between row markers. Divide 60 by number of inches to calculate rows/inch (row gauge).
h. Accurately measure the distance between stitch markers, and divide 40 by this value to calculate stitches per inch (stitch gauge). Record tension and gauge settings.
Yarn Usage Calculation
a. After measuring length and width of the entire swatch from edge-to-edge, weigh the swatch to the nearest gram or unravel it to measure yarn length used (yards/meters).
Note: Yarn usage can be calculated from yarn length or weight used in swatch. This choice depends on information available on yarn package. A Yarn Guide is provided from the Information Screen to provide information.
b.
These measurements will be input for the Yarn Usage option to
calculate how much yarn is needed to knit calculated rows and stitches for each
garment. Yarn usage is included with each printout. A coned yarn sizing text
file is provided for reference.
c.
Record all swatch information on the measurement chart used
for your garments.
d.
NOTE: Yarn usages are calculated when panel rows and stitches
are printed or saved to file. Yarn data can be changed without calculating rows
and stitches before printing or saving.
TAKING PROPER MEASUREMENTS
(TOP)
An important part of garment design is planning the style and fit (ie. loose-fitting pullover sweater or tailored-look tapered garment). After deciding the type of knitted outfit you want, measurements must be taken to obtain proper fit. These custom measurements are used by the Design-A-Pattern to calculate rows and stitches. Attached measurement guides and charts should be used with the following directions. Remember that DESIGN-A-PATTERN charts are calculated precisely to measurements shown on the SIZING/ADJUSTMENT SCREEN. If you desire ease, it must be added to the measurements used to draw panel pictures
MEASUREMENTS FOR SWEATERS AND OTHER TOPS (TOP)
A fabric tape measure should be placed over the shoulder (at the base of the neck) to measure from the desired back panel bottom to the desired front panel bottom. Divide this by 2 for total length (including ribbing). For Baby/Doll 1-piece tops, TOTAL LENGTH is measured in the same manner over the shoulder to mid-crotch.
Measure from the top of the backbone (neck nape) down the back to the waistline. This measurement is needed to position waistline tapering.
If your pattern has bottom ribbing, this length is used to calculate the rows to be knit on the ribber. Although it can be any length, 2-3 inches is typical. Use '0' length for no ribbing. For Baby/Doll tops, this length determines bottom shaping length.
This measurement is taken around the fullest part of the chest (bust measurement for women). It must be taken with the chest expanded to allow breathing room. DO NOT ADD EASE FOR DARTED TOPS because darts provide sufficient ease.
FINISHED CHEST CIRCUMFERENCE (except Darted Tops)
Unless you want a skin-tight fit, ease must be added to the chest circumference measurement. Normally, 2-4 inches of ease is added, depending if the sweater will be worn over other garments or if a 'loose-look' fit is desired. If you aren't sure, measure a properly fitted sweater between the side seams. Multiply this width by 2 for finished chest circumference.
WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE (except Darted Tops)
This measurement is taken around the narrow part of the torso, or where a crease forms upon bending sideways.
FINISHED WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE (except Darted Tops)
Unless tapering is desired, this size should be the same as finished chest circumference. For tapering, the amount of ease added to the actual chest circumference should also be added to the actual waist circumference.
Measure torso circumference at the sweater bottom. Normally, this will be the same as the finished chest circumference. Waist and ribbing lengths and circumferences can be manipulated for different style effects.
SHOULDER WIDTH (Volumes 1,3,4)
Measure shoulder width across the top of the shoulder line between collarbone endpoints. This measurement is taken across the neck nape (see measurement guide).
SHOULDER TAPER (Volumes 1 and 4)
Measure depth from the side of the neck to the collarbone. This measurement is usually an inch or less.
With your arm hanging at your side, measure circumference around the upper arm starting at the collarbone point. This circumference should be divided by 2 to convert armhole circumference to actual armhole length. At least 1 inch of ease should be added to this armhole length for a properly fitted finished armhole length. More ease can be added for different styles. If in doubt, measure the armhole seam length of a properly fitted sweater. Do NOT Add Ease for Darted Tops since this controls bust dart/shoulder strap position.
Measure circumference around the base of the neck and divide by 2 to obtain the minimum neckline width. To this must be added allowance for neckline trim width on both sides of the neck. This procedure is used for crew necklines. For other necklines, any width less than the shoulder width can be used.
NECK DEPTH (except for Darted Sun Tops)
FRONT: Measure from the neck/shoulder junction (top of shoulder line) to desired neck depth. This measurement is used to calculate rows and stitches of the main front panel. If neckline trim is used, allow room for trim width. Asymmetric front panels can have different 'neckline' depths depending on the amount of overlap and desired shaping. Determine left and right panel depths from the shoulder line top to the desired depth at each overlap.
BACK: Measure from nape of the neck (top of backbone) to desired neck depth on the back. Allow for trim as noted above.
SLEEVE LENGTH (except for Darted Sun Tops)
Measure from armpit to desired sleeve length (with bent elbow) as shown in the measurement guide. This length is '0' for vests. Trim or cuff lengths are included in this measurement.
MID-ARM LENGTH (except for Darted Sun Tops)
Measure from armpit to elbow for long sleeve garments shown in the measurement guide. For short sleeve sweaters, this length is usually 1/2 of the total sleeve length.
CUFF RIBBING LENGTH (except for Darted Sun Tops)
This measurement is used to calculate rows for the cuff. Generally, cuff length is the same as main body ribbing length (2-3 inches), but any length can be used (for no trim, use '0' ).
FINISHED UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE (except Darted Sun Tops)
Measure around fullest part of the arm at the junction with the torso. For raglans and drop-shoulders, this must be equal to 2 times the finished armhole length. Ease can be added to set-in sleeves for a 'puff' effect. This measurement can't be less than 2X armhole length.
FINISHED MID-ARM CIRCUMFERENCE (except Darted Sun Tops)
Measure around the point where mid-arm length was measured. Add ease or adjust sizing to give added sleeve shaping.
FINISHED LOWER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE (except Darted Sun Tops)
Measure around arm where the cuff or trim ribbing will join the sleeve bottom. For long sleeve sweaters, this is above the wrist; for short sleeve sweaters, this is above the elbow (or anywhere you desire). Normally, this will be the same circumference as the cuff/trim, but ease can be added for a 'puffed' effect at the cuff.
CUFF CIRCUMFERENCE (except Darted Sun Tops)
Measure around wrist or arm location planned for the cuff, and add ~1 inch of ease.
SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS & ADJUSTMENTS
YOKE LENGTH (Volume 3 Yokeneck Tops Only)
Measure from the nape of the neck to the desired yoke length. Yoke length must not exceed armhole length.
SADDLE LENGTH (Volume 3 Saddle Shoulder Tops Only)
Measure across the shoulders at the neck/shoulder junction to the desired length of shoulder saddle. Use total desired length from front to back to control sleeve saddle width. This measurement must not exceed upper arm circumference.
MIDRIFF BAND LENGTH (Volume 3 Darted Tops Only)
Measure from the midriff line (just below the breasts for women) to the desired length of straight knitting. This measurement is used to adjusting side taper position.
BUST SHAPING ADJUSTMENTS (Volume 3 Darted Tops Only)
Bust shaping is calculated automatically. However, the adjustment screen allows adjustments for dart length and width for flexible bust shaping. Chestband adjustment is also available to control the length of the bust section (front & back panels).
SLEEVE CAP ADJUSTMENTS (Volumes 1,3,4 and DAP for Babies)
Sleeve cap sizing (length and shape) is calculated automatically. However, the adjustment screen allows adjustments for cap depth and cap top width for flexible sleeve cap shaping.
FRONT PANEL OVERLAPS (Volume 4 only)
This is the width from the front centerline to the desired end of each overlapping flap. For Double-breasted and Crossover tops, this is the horizontal distance from the midline to the overlap end. Remember, panels with buttonholes must overlap the other panel.
MEASUREMENTS FOR SKIRTS, SHORTS, BRIEFS
AND PANTS
(TOP)
A fabric tape measure should be placed along the front of the body from the desired garment top (including waistband) to desired garment bottom (including hem or cuff if used). For Baby and Doll pants, this length is the sum of inseam and back crotch lengths. Extra length for folding waistband and hem (or cuffs) must be included.
The desired waistband length (if used) is measured from the top location used for total length. Extra length used for folding over (at least 1/2 inch) should be included.
BOTTOM TRIM LENGTH (HEM OR CUFF)
If your garment has a hem or cuff, measure from the bottom location used for total length. If you don't want a hem or cuff, record '0' inches for bottom trim length. Extra length used for folding over must be included on the chart.
Take this measurement from the same top location as total length (include waistband foldover). Measure along the torso front to the point of maximum hip circumference.
Measure along the front of the leg from garment top (include waistband foldover) to the knee. This measurement, needed to draw all pants patterns, can be used to add flare or tapering to pantlegs. For shorts or culottes above the knee, this length equals total length.
Measure along the outside of the hip from the waistband top to the desired length.
INSEAM LENGTH (for VOLUME #2 SHORTS & VOLUME #5 PANTS)
Measure along inside of leg from the crotch to the same garment bottom location as total length. If cuffs are used, this length (including foldover) must be included. For culotte and trouser inseams, adjust Knee Length and Total Length.
Measure along torso front from garment top (including waistband foldover) to the crotch midpoint. Add ease for desired fit (at least 1 inch). To be sure of proper ease, measure a well-fitted garment for comparison. If you use another garment, remember to subtract 1 inch of ease to compensate for automatic ease.
BACK CROTCH LENGTH
Measure along the torso back from the garment top (including waistband foldover) to crotch midpoint. If ease is added, total ease should be divided equally between front and back measurements. DESIGN-A-PATTERN automatically adds half the difference between front and back crotch lengths at the waist and crotch. If you use another garment for comparison, be sure to allow for automatic ease.
Measure the width between the leg openings for briefs (normally 1-2 inches).
FINISHED WAIST/WAISTBAND CIRCUMFERENCE
Measure the torso circumference at the point where the garment top (or waistband) is measured. Generally, no ease is added unless an elastic waistband is used. The waistband circumference can be smaller than the waist circumference for tighter fit.
This measurement must be taken around the fullest part of the hips. Ease should be added for desired fit (2-4 inches for sideways skirts; 4-6 inches for straight skirts). If you aren't sure how much to add, use another garment for comparison.
Measure circumference at fullest part of the thigh near the crotch line. This size is used with crotch lengths to determine crotch depths of each knitted panel. Ease should be added as desired for desired fit. Because the program automatically adds ease for crotch sizing, subtract 2 inches from the measured value if using another garment for sizing.
KNEE CIRCUMFERENCE (FOR PANTS)
Measure the pant leg circumference at the same location as waist-to-knee length was measured. Ease must be included. If in doubt, use another garment for comparison.
PANT LEG BOTTOM AND CUFF CIRCUMFERENCE
This determines fullness of the lower pant leg with ease added for desired fit. For shorts or culottes, this measurement should be the same as 'knee circumference'. A flare ('bell-bottom') effect can be used by making this larger than the 'knee circumference'. The cuff circumference can be the same size or smaller than the pan tleg bottom circumference.
This measurement determines fullness of the skirt. For a straight skirt,
this should equal hip circumference. The amount of short row shaping is
determined by combinations of waist, hip and bottom circumference sizing. If in
doubt, use a properly fitting skirt for comparison.
PROGRAM
OPERATION REFERENCE
(TOP)
Program Selection and Copy Protection Screens
This initial screen is loaded by running SELECT.EXE. The purpose of this screen is to load the correct program for your style selection. After choosing the proper volume to load with the icon or style buttons, the next screen will ask you to enter a digit from the copyright number shown on the cover page of this manual. Click the correct button or enter the correct number to activate the automatic menu sequence of the main information screen.
Registered customers can Click the Wizard Icons on rhis screen to bypass this copy-protection feature.
A prompt will ask if you want to load a pattern information file. Click 'NO' to begin a new pattern. If you click 'YES', a file listing will appear for selection. 'LASTINFO.DP_' has data from the last session which was automatically saved when you quit the program.
Menu Bar
1. STYLES: Select garment style (required to activate necklines menu)
2. NECKLINES: Select front and back styles (required to activate information menu)
3. INFORMATION
Ø AUTOMATIC ENTRY (Follow screen prompts to enter pattern/yarn information)
Ø YARN GAUGES (Follow screen prompts to enter gauges or calculate from swatch dimensions)
Ø YARN USAGE (Follow screen prompts for yarn swatch and cone information)
Ø INSTRUCTIONS (Load this program operation file into the Windows Word Processor)
Ø CHARTS (Load measurement charts and help file into Text Editor)
Ø EXAMPLES (Show Text Editor and load pattern examples from user manual)
Ø ASK ILEEN (Show Frequently Asked Questions and Send E-Mail questions to website (http://www.ileen.com/)
Ø FILE MANAGER (Load Windows File Manager or Explorer)
4. SIZING (Requires style, necklines and yarn gauge to be activated)
Ø RETRIEVE SAVED FILES (Retrieve saved sizing [.SZ_] or pattern information [.DP_] files)
Ø STARTER MEASUREMENTS (Select starter sizing and load adjustment/calculation screen)
Ø NEW MEASUREMENTS (Follow screen prompts to enter finished measurements from charts)
Ø SAVE MEASUREMENTS (Save sizing [.SZ_] or pattern information [.DP_] files to disk)
5. VIEW/CALCULATE (Switches to panel adjustment and calculation screens)
6. OUTPUT: (Use Menu Bar or Right-Click on Screen to activate this menu)
Ø INFORMATION SUMMARY (Send pattern summary to Text Editor or Print+Preview)
Ø PANEL GRAPHICS
Ø PATTERN DIRECTIONS (Display pattern directions for any panel)
Ø WORD PROCESSOR (Select/run WRITE.EXE, WORDPAD.EXE or any program.EXE file)
7. HELP
Ø Loads user’s default web browser to view hyperlinked user’s manual (UM.HTM).
This file can also be loaded from the HELP button on the Pattern Information screen.
8. EXIT
Ø EXIT PROGRAM (Current pattern information automatically saved to file as LASTINFO.DP_)
Ø OTHER
SCREENS (Switch to any other Design-A-Pattern screen)
Panel Buttons
1. BOTTOM PANEL BUTTONS (SELECT screen for viewing)
Ø PAINTBRUSH
Ø WORDPAD
Ø TEXT EDITOR
Ø TEXT PRINTER
Ø ADJUST SCREEN
Ø GRID SCREEN
2. SIDE PANEL BUTTONS (CONTROL Pattern Input and Output)
Ø STYLES: SELECT garment style (and necklines in volumes #1, 3, 4 or hip shaping in volume #2)
Ø INFO: ENTER pattern and yarn information (including yarn gauge)
Ø GET/SAVE (Retrieve or Save sizing [.SZ_] or pattern information [.DP_] files)
Ø CONVERT pattern from inches to cms or cms to inches on adjustment screen
Ø SIZING: Display key measurements from Size Adjustment Screen
Ø STARTER MEASUREMENTS (Select starter sizing; load adjustment/calculation screen)
Ø NEW MEASUREMENTS (Screen prompts to enter finished measurements from charts)
Ø VIEW MEASUREMENTS (View key measurements to change and redraw panels)
Ø GRAPHICS: Preview panel pictures (with zoom) and select graphic outputs
Ø TEXT: Display pattern directions for any panel in scrollable view window
Ø TO EDITOR (Send selected text directions to Text Editor)
Ø TO PRINTER (Send selected text directions to Print + Preview)
Ø TO DISK (Send selected text directions to Disk File for loading to any word processor)
Ø TO CLIPBOARD (Copy selected text directions to paste into other programs)
Ø TO WORD PAD (Send selected text directions to Windows Word Processor)
Ø EXIT: Quit program (Current pattern data automatically saved to file as LASTINFO.DP_)
Size Adjustment/Calculation Screen
Menu (except Volume #2)
Ø DRAW: Re-draws panel shaping after changing desired measurements
Ø STYLES: Re-draw current measurements for new sweater style
Ø NECKLINES: Re-draw current measurements for new neckline shaping
Ø SLEEVE SHAPING: Re-draw current measurements for new sleeve shaping
Ø CALCULATE: Calculate rows and stitches for individual or all panels
Ø EXIT: Restore pattern sizing, return to main Information or Graphics screen
Menu (Volume #2)
Ø DRAW: Re-draws panel shaping after changing desired measurements
Ø STYLES: Re-draw current measurements for new sweater style
Ø HIP SHAPING: Re-draw current measurements for new sleeve shaping
Ø CALCULATE: Calculate rows and stitches for individual or all panels
Ø EXIT:
Restore pattern sizing, return to Main Information screen or Graphics screen
Buttons
All programs use Tab Buttons to display or change different panel measurements.
Ø Volume #1: BODY SIZING, NECKLINE SIZING, SLEEVE SIZING
Ø Volume #2: SKIRTS, SHORTS, BRIEFS, CULOTTES, SLACKS
Ø Volume #3: BODY SIZING, NECKLINE SIZING, SLEEVE SIZING
Ø Volume #4: BODY SIZING, NECKLINE SIZING, SLEEVE SIZING
Ø DAP for Babies: TOP SIZING, BOTTOM SIZING, NECKLINE SIZING, SLEEVE SIZING
All programs also use Common Buttons to calculate (pause) rows/stitches and return to other screens. Volumes #3 and #4 also include the following Shape Editing Buttons.
Ø SAVE .BMP FILE: Save body or sleeve panel for shape editing in PAINTBRUSH
Ø LOAD .BMP FILE: Retrieve edited body or sleeve panel for row/stitch calculations
Shortcut Mouse Clicks
Ø Left-click on panel pictures: Redraw panels for current measurements
Ø Right-click on panel pictures: Calculate individual panel which is clicked
Ø Left-click on measurements: Increase value 0.25 for each click (or enter manually)
Ø Right-click on measurements: Decrease value 0.25 for each click (Windows 3.1)
SHIFT+Left-click on measurements: Decrease 0.25 for each click (Windows '95 and newer)
Colored lines appear on panel pictures showing measurement location and size.
NOTES:
Rows and stitches must be
calculated before leaving this screen or selecting OUTPUTS will cause an error
message which will return you to the calculation screen.
Different size front and back
panels can be calculated separately for unusual physiques. Separate printouts
should be used for each panel (information summary and rows/stitches).
Volumes #3 and #4 allow shape
editing before calculating rows/stitches (use SAVE .BMP and LOAD .BMP FILE buttons).
This is best used for special sleeve and neckline shaping. It MUST NOT be used
to change overall length or width. (See Step-by-Step directions)
Graphic
Panel & Grid Overlay Screen
(TOP)
Menu & Buttons
1. DRAW: Redraw can be activated by clicking a mouse on panel pictures
Ø Panel shaping only (used for adding designs in other graphic programs)
Ø Panel shaping with full or outline grid overlay
Ø Expanded panel shaping with full 1x1 grid overlay (excludes volume #2)
Ø Panel shaping with pattern measurements instead of grid overlay
Ø Panel shaping with the number of rows and stitches instead of grid overlay
Ø Full grid only for adding overlays to edited panels via clipboard
Note: After clicking DRAW, you will be prompted to decide if you want the grid in rows and stitches or measurements. If you choose rows & stitches, you will be prompted to enter the desired grid increment (default increment = 5 rows x 5 stitches). This value can be changed depending upon how many rows and stitches you have.
2. SAVE GRAPHICS
Ø To Clipboard (for pasting displayed panels into other programs)
Ø To Disk (for saving displayed panels for later use with other programs)
Note: Expanded 1x1 grid pictures can be saved for 'PPD-style' graphic design, but >1 Mb of hard drive space will be consumed. This may also tax your system's memory since Design-A-Pattern bitmap (.BMP) files are saved in 256 color mode.
3. PRINT GRAPHICS
Ø Screen To Printer (prints displayed panels on 1 page in Preview Screen)
Ø Cut-N-Sew templates for sweaters and vests (see example)
Ø Panel Printouts: Transfer graphics to PRINT+PREVIEW screen with key row/stitch directions (option to paste graphics to Word Processors)
Note: Expanded 1x1 grid pictures can be printed for detailed graphic design, but this may be slow depending on system CPU speed and video memory capability.
4. EDIT GRAPHICS
Ø To PAINT: Redraws panels only and loads them in PAINTBRUSH for design.
Ø From PAINT: Retrieves edited panels and loads them in Design-A-Pattern.
Ø Load .BMP files: Retrieves bitmap graphic files for full-page printouts.
Ø Clear Panels: Erases retrieved pictures (re-draw will overlay, not erase panels)
Note: Graphic file is saved to disk as "PANEL.BMP" for editing in PAINTBRUSH. Before leaving PAINTBRUSH, the edited file must be re-saved as "PANEL.BMP" in the same directory as it was loaded for Design-A-Pattern to retrieve it. Grid Overlays can be added to edited panels with the DRAW button.
5. DESIGN GRID
Ø Create Grid: Generate Row & Stitch Grid for motif design using PAINT.
Ø Print Grid: Retrieves Filled-in Motif Grid file for full-page printout.
This feature creates a blank grid for row/stitch
motif design work using a 'fill-in' tool for coloring grid squares that can be
printed or saved for use in other programs.
6. EXIT (Return to the Information Screen or Sizing/Calculation Screen)
1. FILE Menu and Button
Ø NEW: Clear existing text from screen
Ø OPEN: Load a text file from disk (.TXT ASCII files)
Ø SAVE AS: Save text to disk using a filename
Ø PRINT: Transfer screen text to the Print Preview Screen
2. EDIT Menu and Button
Ø CUT: Delete selected text (selected by mouse or shift+cursor keys)
Ø COPY: Copy selected text to clipboard from text editor screen
Ø PASTE: Paste text from clipboard to text editor screen
Ø FONT SIZE: Zoom control for easier reading (use F1, F2, F3, F4 shortcut keys)
3. PRINT Menu and Button
Ø To PRINT PREVIEW: Copy text from text editor to Print Preview Screen
Ø To WORD PROCESSOR: Paste pattern text to selected word processor
Ø To CLIPBOARD: Copy entire text from text editor screen to clipboard
4. RETURN Menu and Buttons
Ø Go
to Information Screen, Graphic Screen, or Print Preview Screen
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Volume #1 Garment Styles Ø Drop-Shoulder Ø Raglan (Curved and Straight) Ø Set-in (Capsleeve, Angled, Square, Curved) Ø Sideways Ø
Gusset Insert |
Volume
#1 Sleeve and Neckline Shaping Ø Front Necklines ‘V’, ‘U’, ‘S’, Notch ‘V’, Round ‘V’, Crew, Invert Crew, Tab, Square, Boat Ø Back Necklines ‘V’, ‘U’, Notch ‘V’, Round ’V’, Crew, Square, Boat Ø Straight, Curved or Bell-Bottom Sleeves |
|
Ø A-line and Straight Skirts Ø Gored, Gored Hip-yoke and Scallop hem Skirts Ø Symmetric and Asymmetric Sideways Skirts Ø Shorts and Culottes Ø Trousers and Knickers Ø
Brief Bottoms (French, Full and Regular Cut) |
Volume #2 Hip and Waist
Shaping Ø Straight Side Hip Ø Curved Hip Ø Rounded Waist Ø S-Curve High Waist |
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Ø Darted Tops (Tunic, Sun Tops, Capsleeve, Square, Curved Armhole Shapes) Ø Capsleeve T-Top Ø Yoke Neck Ø Shoulder Yoke (Drop and Angled Set-in Shoulder) Ø
Saddle Shoulder (Capsleeve, Square, Angled, Curved
Armhole Shapes) |
Volume
#3 Sleeve and Neckline Shaping Ø Front Necklines ‘V’, ‘U’, ‘S’, Notch ‘V’, Round ‘V’, Crew, Invert Crew, Tab, Square, Boat Ø Back Necklines ‘V’, ‘U’, N otch ‘V’, Round ’V’, Crew, Square, Boat Ø Straight, Curved or Bell-Bottom Sleeves |
|
Ø Vests (Bolero; Pointed, Rounded, Angled, Concave, Convex Bottom) Ø Double-breasted Ø Front Crossover Ø
Armhole Shaping (Capsleeve, Square, Angled, Curved,
Drop Shoulder) |
Volume
#4 Sleeve and Neckline Shaping Ø Front Necklines ‘V’, ‘U’, ‘S’, Notch ‘V’, Round ‘V’, Crew, Invert Crew, Tab, Square, Boat Ø Back Necklines ‘V’, ‘U’, Notch ‘V’, Round ’V’, Crew, Square, Boat Ø Straight, Curved or Bell-Bottom Sleeves |
|
DAP Babies and Dolls Garment Styles Ø One-piece top with Brief, Shorts or Leggings Bottom (Skirt/Pants Set) Ø Sweater top with Curved, Flared or Ribbing Bottom (Bib Overall option) Ø
Capsleeve, Square, Angled, Curved, Raglan, Straight
Armhole Shapes |
DAP
Babies and Dolls Neckline Shaping Ø Front Necklines ‘V’, ‘U’, ‘S’, Notch ‘V’, Round ‘V’, Crew, Invert Crew, Tab, Square, Boat Ø Back Necklines ‘V’, ‘U’, Notch ‘V’, Round ’V’, Crew, Square, Boat |
DESIGN-A-PATTERN MEASUREMENT CHARTS
|
DESIGN-A-PATTERN MEASUREMENT CHART (Volumes
#1, #3 & #4) Pattern Chart for:
____________________________
Date: _______________ Name of Yarn: _________________________________ Name of Pattern: ______________________________ Stitch Gauge: ________ - Swatch length (edge to edge): ___________ Row Gauge:
________ - Swatch width
(edge to edge): ___________ Tension
Settings Main Bed Body Panels: ________ - Yarn length
in Swatch: _________ Main Bed Ribbing Trim: ________ - Length of Yarn per Cone: _________ Ribber Ribbing Trim: ________ - Cost of
Yarn per Cone: _________ SIZE MEASUREMENT (MEASUREMENT DESCRIPTION) ====
====================================================================== Body Panel Lengths (Click Here for Graphic)
_____: Total
Length (Front bottom to back bottom over shoulder at neck (x 1/2)) _____: Top-To-Waist
(Nape of neck to waist (along middle of torso back)) _____: Armhole (Straight
from underarm to collarbone) _____: Bottom Trim
(Desired length for bottom ribbing (or shaping for vests)) Body Panel Circumferences (Click Here for Graphic)
_____: Actual Chest
(Around fullest part of expanded chest (no ease)) _____: Finished Chest
(Ease added to actual chest circumference (2-4 inches)) _____: Actual Waist
(Around waist for yokeneck & saddle-shoulder tops (no ease)) _____: Finished Waist
(Ease added to actual size (same as CHEST for no taper)) _____: Finished Bottom
(Around torso for sweater bottom (Rib trim or Hem)) _____: Shoulder
Width (Straight line between points of collarbone) Necklines (Click Here for Graphic)
_____: Neckline Width
(Diameter at base of neck plus EASE for trim) _____: Front Depth
(Shoulder center line to desired depth (Allow for trim)) _____: Back Depth (Shoulder center line to desired depth
(Allow for trim)) ______________________ Front Neckline Style ______________________ Back Neckline Style Sleeve Lengths (Click Here for Graphic)
_____: Total
Length (Underarm to desired length with arm bent (include cuff)) _____: Mid-Arm
Length (Underarm to sleeve mid-point (elbow for long sleeve)) _____: Cuff
Length (Desired length of cuff (include in sleeve length)) Finished Sleeve
Circumferences (Click
Here for Graphic) _____: Upper Arm
(Around upper arm at arm/torso junction (EASE Added)) _____: Middle Arm
(Around arm at point of mid-arm length (EASE Added)) _____: Lower Arm (Around
arm above desired cuff location (EASE Added)) _____: Cuff (Around
wrist or cuff location for short sleeves) SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS Volume #4 only _____: Left Panel Overlap
(Width from centerline to desired overlap) _____: Right Panel
Overlap (Width from centerline to desired overlap) _____: Left
Neckline Depth (Shoulder center line to desired depth (left overlap)) _____: Right
Neckline Depth (Shoulder center line to desired depth (right overlap)) Volume #3 Only _____: Yoke
Length (Shoulder center line to desired depth (less than armhole)) _____: Saddle
Length (Total desired width across shoulder top for upper sleeve) Volume #1 and #4 only _____: Shoulder
Taper (Taper length at neckline for desired shoulder sloping) |
|
DESIGN-A-PATTERN MEASUREMENT CHART (Volume
#2) Pattern Chart for:
____________________________ Date:
_________________ Name of Yarn: _________________________________ Name of Pattern: ______________________________ Stitch Gauge: ________ - Swatch length (edge to edge): ___________ Row Gauge:
________ - Swatch width
(edge to edge): ___________ Tension
Settings Main Bed Body Panels: ________ - Yarn length
in Swatch: _________ Main Bed Ribbing Trim: ________ - Length of Yarn per Cone: _________ Ribber Ribbing Trim: ________ - Cost of
Yarn per Cone: _________ SIZE MEASUREMENT (MEASUREMENT DESCRIPTION) ======
====================================================================== LENGTHS
(Click Here for Graphic) ______: Total Length (Front of Body from
waistband top to garment bottom) ______: Waistband (Length with 1/2 inch
foldover added (in total length)) ______: Waist-to-Hip (Waistband top to maximum
hip width (measure in front)) SLACKS BRIEFS ONLY ONLY ------ ------ ______ ______: Front Crotch (Along front from waistband
top to crotch midpoint) ______ ______: Back Crotch (Along back side from
waist top to crotch midpoint) ______: Waist-to-Knee (Waistband top to knee (or
desired taper point)) ______: Cuff Length (Desired length for bottom
trim (in total length)) ______: Shorts Inseam (Inside leg from crotch to leg
bottom) ______: Side Seam (Waistband top to leg opening
along side of hip) CIRCUMFERENCE
(Click Here for Graphic) SLACKS BRIEFS ONLY ONLY ______ ______: Waist (Circumference at waistline (desired
garment top)) ______ ______: Hip (Circumference at fullest part of hip) ______: Thigh (Circumference at fullest thigh near
crotch line) ______: Knee (Circumference at knee or taper point
(include ease)) ______: Leg Bottom (Circumference at pant leg
bottom (include ease)) ______: Crotch Width (Crotch width between leg
openings of briefs) SKIRTS ______: Waist (Circumference at waistline (desired
garment top)) ______: Hip (Circumference at fullest part of hip) ______: Hem (Circumference at skirt bottom (add ease for
fullness)) ______: Hem Length (Desired length for bottom
trim (in total length)) ______: Number of panels
(Panel repeats for skirts (not for A-Line skirts)) NOTE: Inseam for
trousers/culottes are determined from Total Length, Knee Length and Front
Crotch Length |
|
DESIGN-A-PATTERN MEASUREMENT CHART (Volume
#5) Pattern Chart for:
____________________________
Date: _________________ Name of Yarn: _________________________________ Name of Pattern: ______________________________ Stitch Gauge: ________ - Swatch length (edge to edge): ___________ Row Gauge:
________ - Swatch width
(edge to edge): ___________ Tension
Settings Main Bed Body Panels: ________ - Yarn length
in Swatch: _________ Main Bed Ribbing Trim: ________ - Length of Yarn per Cone: _________ Ribber Ribbing Trim: ________ - Cost of
Yarn per Cone: _________ SIZE MEASUREMENT AND DESCRIPTION ======
===================================================================== Body
Panel Length (Click Here for Graphic) ______: Top Length (Nape
of Neck to Crotch (or desired bottom)) ______: Waist Length
(Shoulder line to Navel) ______: Bottom Shaping
(Bottom Leg or Flare Shaping Length (or Rib Trim)) ______: Armhole (Straight from underarm to collarbone) ______: Shoulder Taper (Length at neckline for desired
shoulder sloping) Body
Panel Finished Circumference (Click Here for Graphic) ______: Chest (Garment Circumference at Armhole) ______: Waist (Garment Circumference at Waist Length) ______: Bottom/Hem
(Garment Circumference at sweater bottom) ______: Shoulder Width (Straight line between points
of collarbone) ______: Crotch Width (Width between Tops of
Legs) Neckline
(Click Here for Graphic) ______: Neck Width (Width Diameter at base of neck plus
EASE for trim) ______: Front Depth (Top of Shoulder line to desired
depth (Allow for trim)) ______: Back Depth (Top of Shoulder line to desired
depth (Allow for trim)) Sleeve
Panel Length (Click Here for Graphic) ______: Total Length (Underarm to desired length
with arm bent (include cuff)) ______: Mid-Arm Length (Underarm to sleeve
mid-point (elbow for long sleeve)) ______: Cuff Length (Desired length of cuff
(include in sleeve length)) Sleeve
Panel Finished Circumference (Click Here for Graphic) ______: Upper Arm (Around upper arm at arm/torso junction
(EASE Added)) ______: Middle Arm (Around arm at point of mid-arm
length (EASE Added)) ______: Lower Arm (Around arm above desired cuff
location (EASE Added)) ______: Cuff (Around wrist or cuff location for short
sleeves) Bottom
Panel Length (Click Here for Graphic) ______: Skirt Length (Top of Waistband to
Desired Skirt Length (with shaping)) ______: Inseam Length (Length from Middle of Crotch
to Desired Pants Bottom) ______: Front Crotch (Length from Waistline
to Crotch (along front of Torso)) ______: Back Crotch (Length from Waistline to
Crotch (along Back of Torso)) ______: Cuff Length (Desired Length of Cuff
(included in Inseam Length)) Bottom
Panel Finished Circumferences (Click Here for Graphic) ______: Waist Band (Finished Garment Circumference
at Waist Line) ______: Hip (Finished Garment Circumference at Hip Line)
______: Thigh (Finished Leg Circumference at Crotch) ______: Leg Bottom (Finished Leg Circumference
at Desired Pants Length) ______: Cuff (Finished Leg Circumference
Ribbing Trim at Leg Bottom) |
DESIGN-A-PATTERN MEASUREMENT GUIDES
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SAMPLE KNITTING DIRECTION TEXT FILES
(Click
to View Printout Samples for Each Volume)
|
DAP Volume #1: set_in.txt (row-by-row & estimated directions) DAP Volume #2: culotte.txt, skirt.txt DAP Volume #3: dart_top.txt, yokeneck.txt DAP Volume #4: vest.txt DAP for Babies: baby.txt |
SAMPLE TEXT PRINTOUT: ROW-BY-ROW KNITTING
DIRECTIONS
|
DESIGN-A-PATTERN
for Windows (Volume #1 from Ileen's Needle Nook) =================================================================
Customer Name: Alan Levy Pattern Name: Hannibal Pirates Pullover Pattern Type: CAPSLEEVE SET-IN Front Neckline:
ADJUSTABLE CREW Back Neckline: ADJUSTABLE CREW Name of Yarn : Bramwell
Artistic Stitch Gauge = 7.00
Sts/Inch Row Gauge = 11.00
Rows/Inch Machine Tension
Settings: Main Panel = 6.0 Main Bed Rib = 3.0 Ribber Rib = 3.0 MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY
(Inches) PANEL PANEL __________MAIN BODY
PANELS_________ ___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__ 26.00 : Total Length
(With Ribbing) 286 --- 17.00 : Waist
Length 187 --- 02.50 : Bottom Ribbing
Length 027 --- 42.00 : Finished Chest
Circumference --- 146 42.00 : Finished Waist
Circumference --- 146 42.00 : Finished Bottom
Circumference --- 146 09.00 : Finished Armhole
Depth 099 --- 16.00 : Shoulder
Width --- 112 01.00 : Shoulder
Taper 011 --- _____________NECKLINES_____________
___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__ 07.00 : Neckline
Width --- 048 03.00 : Front Neckline
Depth 033 --- 01.00 : Back Neckline
Depth 011 --- ____________SLEEVE PANELS__________
___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__ 08.00 : Total Length
(Include Cuff) 088 --- 04.00 : Mid-Arm
Length 044 --- 02.00 : Cuff Length 022 --- 18.00 : Upper Arm
Circumference --- 126 15.00 : Mid-Arm
Circumference --- 104 11.00 : Lower Arm
Circumference --- 076 10.00 : Cuff
Circumference --- 070 06.00 : Sleeve Cap
Length 066 --- _____________________________________________________
Comments and Notes: General Knitting
Directions: BODY PANELS 1: Cast on 146 sts and
knit 27 rows of rib before transferring to main bed. 2: Knit 159 rows to
armhole with increases/decreases as directed. 3: Knit 99 rows of
armhole shaping as directed. - FRONT Neckline: Scrap
off leftside sts at row 225 and decrease as shown. - FRONT Neckline:
Re-hang leftside sts at row 225 and decrease as shown. - BACK Neckline: Scrap
off leftside sts at row 247 and decrease as shown. - BACK Neckline: Re-hang
leftside sts at row 247 and decrease as shown. General Knitting
Directions: SLEEVE PANELS 1: Cast on 70 sts and
knit 22 rows of rib before transfer to main bed. 2: Knit 66 rows to the
armhole with increases as shown. 3: Knit remaining rows
for raglan or set-in sleeves with decreases as shown. ============================================================
________ESTIMATED YARN
REQUIREMENTS FOR THIS GARMENT________ ----YARN INFORMATION----
----- SWATCH INFORMATION ----- YARDS/CONE COST/CONE
LENGTH x WIDTH (inches) YARDS 2450
24.95 5.5 x 6.0 38.3 GARMENT SECTION PANEL
AREA YARN LENGTH YARN COST ---------------
---------- ----------- --------- TOTAL GARMENT : 1309 1519 16.95 -FRONT PANEL : 428 497 5.55 -BACK PANEL : 439 510 5.68 -SLEEVE PANELS: 297 344 3.84 -RIBBING/CUFFS: 145 168 1.88 ============================================================
0.62 TOTAL CONES NEEDED
FOR GARMENT (YARN COST = 16.95) _______ FRONT PANEL KNITTING DIRECTIONS
_________ RIBBING = 28 ROWS OF 74 STITCHES (EACH
SIDE) _____LEFT SIDE____ ROW ____RIGHT SIDE____ Total Stop
Start NUMBER
Start Stop Total ===== ====
===== =====
===== ====
===== 074 074
001 <001>
001 074
074 074 074
001 <148>
001 074
074 <= Armhole 071 071
001 <150>
001 071
071 068 068
001 <151>
001 068
068 067 067
001 <152>
001 067
067 065 065
001 <153>
001 065
065 064 064
001 <155>
001 064
064 062 062
001 <156>
001 062
062 061 061
001 <158>
001 061
061 060 060
001 <160>
001 060
060 059 059
001 <162>
001 059
059 058 058
001 <164>
001 058
058 057 057
001 <168>
001 057
057 056 056
001 <172>
001 056
056 053 056
004 <227>
004 056
053 050 056
007 <228>
007 056
050 047 056
010 <229>
010 056
047 046 056
011 <230>
011 056
046 045 056
012 <231>
012 056
045 042 056
015 <232>
015 056
042 040 056
017 <234>
017 056
040 039 056
018 <236>
018 056
039 037 056
020 <238>
020 056
037 036 056
021 <240>
021 056
036 035 056
022 <242>
022 056
035 034 056
023 <245>
023 056
034 033 056
024 <247>
024 056
033 031 054
024 <249>
024 054
031 029 052
024 <250>
024 052
029 026 049
024 <251>
024 049
026 022 046
025 <252>
025 046
022 019 043
025 <253>
025 043
019 016 040
025 <254>
025 040
016 013 037
025 <255>
025 037
013 011 035
025 <256>
025 035
011 008 032
025 <257> 025 032
008 005 029
025 <258>
025 029
005 <= Last Row _________ BACK PANEL KNITTING DIRECTIONS
__________ RIBBING = 28 ROWS OF 74 STITCHES (EACH
SIDE) _____LEFT SIDE____ ROW ____RIGHT SIDE____ Total Stop
Start NUMBER
Start Stop Total ===== ====
===== =====
===== ====
===== 074 074
001 <001>
001 074
074 074 074
001 <148>
001 074
074 <= Armhole 071 071
001 <150>
001 071
071 068 068
001 <151>
001 068
068 067 067
001 <152>
001 067
067 065 065
001 <153>
001 065
065 064 064
001 <155>
001 064
064 062 062
001 <156>
001 062
062 061 061
001 <158>
001 061
061 060 060
001 <160
001 060
060 059 059
001 <162>
001 059
059 058 058
001 <164>
001 058
058 057 057
001 <168>
001 057
057 056 056
001 <172>
001 056
056 049 055
007 <249>
007 055
049 041 052
012 <250>
012 052
041 035 050
016 <251>
016 050
035 030 047
018 <252>
018 047
030 025 044
020 <253>
020 044
025 021 042
022 <254>
022 042
021 017 039
023 <255>
023 039
017 014 037
024 <256>
024 037
014 011 034
024 <257>
024 034
011 005 029
025 <258>
025 029
005 <= Last Row _______ SLEEVE PANEL KNITTING DIRECTIONS
_________ RIBBING = 22 ROWS OF 35
STITCHES (EACH SIDE) _____LEFT SIDE____ ROW ____RIGHT SIDE____ Total Stop
Start NUMBER
Start Stop Total ===== ====
===== =====
===== ====
===== 039 039
001 <001>
001 039
039 040 040
001 <002>
001 040
040 041 041
001 <004>
001 041
041 042 042
001 <005>
001 042
042 043 043
001 <007>
001 043
043 044 044
001 <009>
001 044
044 045 045
001 <011>
001 045
045 046 046
001 <012>
001 046
046 047 047
001 <014>
001 047
047 048 048
001 <015>
001 048
048 049 049
001 <017>
001 049
049 050 050
001 <018>
001 050
050 051 051
001 <020>
001 051
051 052 052
001 <021>
001 052
052 053 053
001 <024>
001 053
053 054 054
001 <027>
001 054
054 055 055
001 <033>
001 055
055 056 056
001 <035>
001 056
056 057 057
001 <041>
001 057
057 058 058
001 <043>
001 058
058 059 059
001 <049>
001 059
059 060 060
001 <052>
001 060
060 061 061
001 <057>
001 061
061 062 062
001 <060>
001 062
062 063 063
001 <066>
001 063
063 059 059
001 <068>
001 059
059 057 057
001 <069>
001 057
057 054 054
001 <070>
001 054
054 051 051
001 <072>
001 051
051 050 050
001 <073>
001 050
050 049 049
001 <074>
001 049
049 048 048
001 <075>
001 048
048 046 046
001 <077>
001 046
046 045 045
001 <079>
001 045
045 044 044
001 <080>
001 044
044 043 043
001 <082>
001 043
043 042 042
001 <083>
001 042
042 041 041
001 <084>
001 041
041 040 040
001 <086>
001 040
040 039 039
001 <087>
001 039
039 038 038
001 <089>
001 038
038 037 037
001 <091>
001 037
037 036 036
001 <093>
001 036
036 035 035
001 <094>
001 035
035 033 033
001 <096>
001 033
033 032 032
001 <097>
001 032
032 031 031
001 <100>
001 031
031 030 030
001 <102>
001 030
030 029 029
001 <103>
001 029
029 028 028
001 <105>
001 028
028 027 027
001 <107>
001 027
027 026 026
001 <109>
001 026
026 025 025
001 <110>
001 025
025 024 024
001 <112>
001 024
024 023 023
001 <113>
001 023
023 022 022
001 <115>
001 022
022 021 021
001 <116>
001 021
021 020 020
001 <118>
001 020
020 019 019
001 <119>
001 019
019 017 017
001 <121>
001 017
017 016 016
001 <122>
001 016
016 015 015
001 <123>
001 015
015 014 014
001 <125>
001 014
014 013 013
001 <126>
001 013
013 012 012
001 <127>
001 012
012 011 011
001 <128>
001 011
011 009 009
001 <129>
001 009
009 008 008
001 <130>
001 008
008 007 007 001
<132> 001 007 007 <= Last Row FRONT
PANEL 1. Cast on 148 stitches
(needles -74 to 74) on both beds, and knit 28 rows of ribbing. Transfer
stitches to main bed. 2. Continue straight knitting
through row #149. Decrease as directed for armhole shaping from row #150 to
row #172. 3. Begin neckline
shaping at row #227 by scrapping off or putting in hold left side stitches.
Decrease inside stitches as directed for neckline shaping to the final row
(#258). 4. Decrease as directed
for shoulder tapering from row #249 to #258. 5. Cast off the last 5
stitches (25 to 29), and rehang scrapped off right side stitches or put them
back in work position from hold. 6. Repeat pattern
directions for right side stitches (row #227-258) before casting off. BACK
PANEL 1. Cast on 148 stitches
(-74 to 74) on both beds, and knit 28 rows of ribbing. Transfer stitches to
main bed. 2. Continue straight
knitting through row #149. Decrease as directed for armhole shaping from row
#150 to row #172. 3. Begin neckline and
shoulder shaping and at row #249 by scrapping off or putting in hold left
side stitches. Decrease inside and outside stitches as directed to the final
row (#258). 4. Repeat steps #5 and
#6 from front panel directions. SLEEVE
DIRECTIONS (Knit 2 Sleeves) 1. Cast on 70 stitches
(-35 to 35) on both beds, and knit 22 rows of ribbing. Transfer stitches to
main bed. 2. Increase 4
stitches/side (-39 to 39) and increase as directed until knitting 126
stitches at row #67 (-63 to 63). 3. Decrease for sleeve
cap shaping as directed from row #68 to #132, and cast off after knitting 10
stitches (-5 to 5) at row #132. 4. Repeat directions for
the second sleeve. TRIM
AND ASSEMBLY 1. Join one shoulder
seam together for front and back panels. 2. Hang right front
neckline and back neckline edges on the machine, and knit 1 row before
transferring to the ribber for 1x1 ribbing. 3. Knit 1 inch of
neckline trim. Transfer every other stitch to main bed, and cast off. 4. Join the second
shoulder seam together for front and back panels. 5. Sew sleeves to front
and back body panels at the armhole edges. 6. Join front and back
panel side seams and both sleeve seams. |
SAMPLE TEXT PRINTOUT: ESTIMATED KNITTING
DIRECTIONS FOR BODY PANELS
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(Use ROW-BY-ROW Printout
for most accurate curve shaping) CAST ON 147 stitches
(needles -73 to 74 ) and knit 28 rows of rib. Transfer to main bed and
reset Row Counter to 001. KNIT 147 stitches for
the first row of both body panels BOTTOM TO WAISTLINE
(both sides of bed) Knit straight between
Row #1 and Row #71 WAISTLINE TO ARMHOLE
(both sides of bed) Knit straight from Row
#72 to Row #149 ARMHOLE SHAPING (both
sides of bed) Decrease 17 outside
stitches between Row #149 and Row #248 ==> Cast off 6
stitches on each side at Armhole. ==> Decrease 1
stitches every 1 rows ( 5 times) ==> Decrease 1
stitches every 2 rows ( 6 times) ==> Knit straight for
another 82 rows of armhole shaping. NECKLINE SHAPING (each
side of bed) FRONT PANEL NECKLINE
(directions for each side of bed) ==> Cast off 7
stitches on each side of bed at Row # 225 ==> Decrease 3
stitches every 1 rows ( 2 times) ==> Decrease 4
stitches every 1 rows ( 1 times) ==> Decrease 1
stitches every 1 rows ( 3 times) ==> Decrease 1
stitches every 2 rows ( 2 times) ==> Decrease 1
stitches every 6 rows ( 1 times) ==> Decrease 1
stitches every 7 rows ( 1 times) ==> Knit straight for
10 rows. ==> Cast off
remaining stitches at Row #259 BACK PANEL NECKLINE
(directions for each side of bed) ==> Cast off 7
stitches on each side of bed at Row # 247 ==> Decrease 10
stitches every 1 rows ( 1 times) ==> Decrease 2
stitches every 1 rows ( 1 times) ==> Decrease 3
stitches every 1 rows ( 1 times) ==> Decrease 1
stitches every 2 rows ( 2 times) ==> Knit straight for
3 rows. ==> Cast off
remaining stitches at Row #259 SHOULDER TAPERING (both
sides of bed) Decrease 31 outside
stitches between Row #248 and Row #259 ==> Decrease 2
stitches every 1 rows ( 2 times) ==> Decrease 3
stitches every 1 rows ( 9 times) Knitting complete at
Shoulder. |
SAMPLE PRINTOUT GRAPHIC STYLES (Reduced from Full-Page
Scale)
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At the request of knitting seminar
customers, a CUT-N-SEW template option was developed for sweaters and vests in Volumes
#1 and #4. Sweater style and sizing
selection procedures are identical for row-by-row directions and Cut-N-Sew
templates. Follow these directions to
print full-size shaping templates for your sweater.
1. Return to Main Screen after sizing on the adjustment/calculation screen.
Note: Unlike
row-by-row printouts, calculations are not needed for Cut-N-Sew.
Text Printout
2. Click the TEXT Button, and select
'Cut-N-Sew' from the TO PRINTER button. This summary includes measurements and
fabric sizing directions for each panel (length x width and rows x stitches) as
well as total fabric area needed. Print this one page summary using the
PRINT/PREVIEW screen.
Graphic Printout
3. Go to the GRID SCREEN, and click
the 'Cut-N-Sew Templates' button. Full scale or reduced templates can be
selected from the option box that appears. Click 'OK' after selecting a
template scale.
4. Body and sleeve panels are
overlayed with page windows to preview page printouts. If you selected a
"100% scale template", click the RIGHT mouse button in the
template window you want to print. If you chose a reduced template,
pattern printout size will depend on the scale reduction.
5. Continue clicking template windows
as you finish printing each full-size template. To save paper, printing all
templates may not be necessary since, in most cases, templates for one side of
the panel can be reversed for the other side.
6. When finished printing templates,
click 'CANCEL', use the LEFT mouse button to redraw panels, or use the menu to
return to other screens.
Knitting Notes
7. Fabric allowance is needed to join
panels and attach trim. Default is 0.5 inches for side and shoulder seams and
0.25 inches to attach trim pieces (ribbing, cuffs, etc). Remember that
templates are sized for exact shaping - seam allowance must be added when
cutting templates.
8. Knit 4 fabric panels as shown in
the text printout, and overlay the templates on them. Use the sizing grid as a
guide to cut fabric shaping with seam and trim allowances.
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DESIGN-A-PATTERN
for Windows (Volume #1 from Ileen's Needle Nook) Customer Name: CUT-N-SEW
MANUAL EXAMPLE Pattern Name : BABY
PULLOVER Pattern Type : CAPSLEEVE
SET-IN Front Neckline: TAB
FRONT POLO Back Neckline:
ADJUSTABLE CREW Name of Yarn : BRAMWELL
ARTISTIC Stitch Gauge = 7.00
Sts/Inch Row Gauge = 11.00
Rows/Inch Machine Tension
Settings: Main Panel = 6.0 Main Bed Rib = 3.0
Ribber Rib = 3.0 MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY
(inches) PANEL PANEL __________MAIN BODY
PANELS_________ ROWS NEEDLES 16.00 : Total Length
(With Ribbing) 176 --- 12.00 : Waist Length 132 --- 01.00 : Bottom Ribbing
Length 011 --- 27.00 : Finished Chest
Circumference --- 095 27.00 : Finished Waist
Circumference --- 095 27.00 : Finished Bottom
Circumference --- 095 06.50 : Finished Armhole
Depth 072 --- 10.80 : Shoulder Width --- 076 00.50 : Shoulder Taper 006 --- _____________NECKLINES_____________
ROWS NEEDLES 05.00 : Neckline Width --- 035 02.50 : Front Neckline
Depth 028 --- 01.00 : Back Neckline
Depth 011 --- 01.00 : Front Neckline
Tab Width --- 007 01.50 : Front Neckline
Tab Length 017 --- ____________SLEEVE
PANELS__________ ROWS NEEDLES 05.00 : Total Length
(Include Cuff) 055 --- 02.00 : Mid-Arm Length 022 --- 01.00 : Cuff Length 011 --- 13.00 : Upper Arm
Circumference --- 091 11.00 : Mid-Arm
Circumference --- 077 08.00 : Lower Arm
Circumference --- 056 07.00 : Cuff
Circumference --- 049 04.00 : Sleeve Cap
Length 044 --- ______ ESTIMATED FABRIC
REQUIREMENTS FOR THIS CUT-N-SEW GARMENT ______ =============== 0.54
SQUARE YARDS TOTAL FABRIC INCLUDES =============== 0.50 inches seam/edging
allowance for top & side seams. 0.25 inches seam/edging
allowance to attach rib or cuff. GARMENT SECTION WIDTH
& STITCHES LENGTH & ROWS PANEL AREA ---------------
---------------- ------------- ---------- -FRONT BODY PANEL: 14.5
inches(102) 15.8 inches(173) 228 Sq.inches -BACK BODY PANEL: 14.5
inches(102) 15.8 inches(173) 228 Sq.inches -SLEEVE PANEL 1: 14.0
inches(98) 8.8 inches(96) 123 Sq.inches -SLEEVE PANEL 2: 14.0
inches(98) 8.8 inches(96) 123 Sq.inches 1) Use grid screen DRAW
menu for Cut-n-Sew templates (w/o seam/trim allowance). ... Templates for left
side of panels can be reversed for right side to save paper. 2) Layout full size
Cut-n-Sew templates on fabric panels (use grid sizing as a guide). 3) Cut panels with extra
0.50 inches for outside seams and 0.25 inches to attach trim. 4) Sew panel edges
together before attaching trim pieces. Note 1: Total fabric
length excludes body panel ribbing and sleeve cuffs. Note 2: Cast on 95
stitches and knit 11 rows of rib trim for body panels. Note 3: Cast on 49
stitches and knit 11 rows of cuff trim for sleeves. |
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS INDEX (TOP) DESIGN-A-PATTERN TIPS TO ADD MOTIFS TO GRAPHICS PRINTOUTS KNITTING TIPS AND TECHNIQUES FOR ROW-BY-ROW DIRECTIONS |
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DESIGN-A-PATTERN TIPS TO ADD MOTIFS TO GRAPHIC
PRINTOUTS (TOP) |
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What is the easiest way to add graphic designs and lettering to my front panel? Of several options available to transfer panel shapes and grids to other programs, the easiest way to add simple designs or letters is to use Design-A-Pattern's Grid Screen. The selected panel will be loaded into Paintbrush by clicking the EDIT button (To Paint). Geometric designs can be added with line, square and circle buttons, any font lettering can be added with the 'text button', and colors can be added with the 'color fill' button in Paintbrush. When you are satisfied, simply click the 'Exit' button and say 'yes' when Paintbrush asks if you want to save the picture as 'Paint.bmp'. The computer will return to Design-A-Pattern's grid screen where you must click the EDIT button (From PAINT). The file 'Paint.bmp' will be loaded, and you will be asked to select a grid style or measurements overlay. The panel is ready to print from the Grid Screen.. How do I create my own motif using the expanded 1x1 grid overlay of the front panel? Because 1x1 grid overlays are larger than normal Design-A-Pattern panel graphics, they require different procedures to add graphics. After generating a zoomed panel on the Grid Screen, return to the main information screen. Click the Paintbrush button at the bottom of the screen to load the displayed graphic into Paintbrush. The 'color-fill' button and color palette are used to fill in any row/stitch rectangles to create an original motif on the front panel. Since grid openings are small, the picture must be expanded by selecting 'Zoom' under the View menu item. When finished with the motif design, it can be printed, saved or copied from Paintbrush. If the picture is saved for loading into a word processor or program, use any filename except 'Paint.bmp'. How do I add clipart graphics to print an expanded 1x1 grid overlay of the front panel? A working knowledge of general Windows navigation features and Paintbrush is needed for this. As described above, the 1x1 zoomed panel graphic should be loaded in Paintbrush from the main information screen. Clip art or pictures can be copied (Edit-Copy) from any loaded program for pasting onto this panel grid where it can be moved and resized by dragging it with your mouse. Be sure that Paintbrush's 'Draw Opaque' setting (under the Image menu) is disabled when the graphic is pasted onto the panel grid. Return to Design-A-Pattern (Alt-Tab) after adding the graphic, and copy the same displayed panel using the drop-down menu (Copy to Clipboard). Use Alt-Tab to return to Paintbrush, and paste (Edit-Paste) the 1x1 panel to overlay the panel grid on the graphic. As above, the finished design can be printed, saved or copied from Paintbrush. |
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KNITTING TIPS AND TECHNIQUES FOR ROW-BY-ROW DIRECTIONS (TOP) |
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Since Design-A-Pattern printouts don't tell me how to knit necklines or trims, are there special techniques to use row-by-row directions? Since most knitters prefer to use the techniques they are most familiar with to knit trims or shape necklines, we don't include technique directions in printouts. I combine the inside needle numbers listed under the 'START' column for two rows (knit, wrap and knit back) for neckline short-row shaping. For shoulder slope shaping, I double the outside needle numbers listed under the 'STOP' column. I'm used to traditional knitting directions for sweaters. When should I print traditional instead of row-by-row directions? Although row-by-row directions offer several advantages (shaping accuracy, no need to mark repeats, etc), row/decrease/repeat printouts are available in volumes #1, #2 and #4. For charting garments with straight lines (raglan sleeves, vee-necklines, etc), traditional estimated printouts are often shorter than row-by-row directions. Row-by-row directions are much better for curved shaping (ie capsleeves, crew necklines, etc) since the traditional 'Magic Equation' is much less accurate due to simulating curves with several smaller straight lines. How are cables knitted on garment panels using Design-A-Pattern row-by-row directions? You must knit a swatch with your cable choices to calculate row and stitch gauges. Pick out the Design-A-Pattern volume of your choice, and enter these swatch gauges as usual. Follow your pattern directions for garment shaping while knitting in the cables at the same time. |
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I do custom knitting for people with unusual body shapes that require me to knit each panel differently. Can Design-A-Pattern help me knit for these customers? Design-A-Pattern allows you to calculate and print row/stitch directions for each knitted panel. As an example, for men with 'mature' figures, you can expand waistline tapering for the front panel and print it separately from the 'normal' back panel. Similarly, other measurements such as shoulder widths and tapering can be adjusted for separate panel calculations and printouts. Since I'm a large person, I have a hard time finding patterns in my size. Will Design-A-Pattern allow me to chart patterns that fit me? Although starter sizing only goes to size 50 for knitted tops, larger measurements can be used. The main problem for large garments is having enough needles for front and back panels. By entering the highest needle number on your machine, Design-A-Pattern adjusts row-by-row printout directions automatically for 2 or 4 body panels. A gusset insert style was also included in volume #1 that lets you add side panels for extra width. Another option is provided in volume #4 which allows asymmetric designs to add overlap and separate shaping for left and right front panels. Can I chart dresses or suits by combining styles and measurements from different volumes? Using volume #2 (skirts and slacks) for a dress bottom and volumes 1, 3, or 4 for the top allows you to make 1-piece dresses or 2-piece suites. You must use the same skirt or slacks Waist Circumference as the Bottom Circumference measurement used for the knitted top. Care must also be used to ensure both skirt and top total length measurements are taken at the same time from a common point. It may be helpful to take measurements from a dress that fits you well. |
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How do I read the row-by row printout? Our printout is arranged like a knitting machine with left and right side needles listed on either side of the row counter column. The 'START' columns on each side shows the first needle in work from the center of the bed. The 'STOP' columns shows the last needle in work on both sides for the outside edge of the garment. The 'TOTAL' column is the number of needles in work on both sides of the row. Since rows are only listed when the number of needles in work changes, you knit straight until the row counter reaches the next listed row. When numbers increase or decrease in the 'STOP' column, you are shaping on the outer edge of the garment, and when numbers change in the 'START' column, you will be shaping the neckline. When you decrease for the neckline and garment edge (underarm) at the same time, the 'TOTAL' column shows how many stitches are left in work on that row after shaping. My knitted garments usually don't fit well when I buy patterns. How will Design-A-Pattern help me make better fitting armholes and sleeves? All Design-A-Pattern volumes allow you to enter and adjust numerous body measurements to draw your pattern on the screen. Since rows and stitches are calculated on the screen drawings, finished panel measurements are accurate to the nearest row and stitch for any shape. Ease can be added to any starting measurement based on your finished garment fit preferences. Adjusting armhole depths and shoulder set-ins on body panels automatically adjust sleeve panel shaping. The continuous curve shaping of a cap sleeve is normally a challenge, but Design-A-Pattern gives you the right size every time. If you prefer a customized 'puffy' sleeve top, cap depth and width can be adjusted as well. What finishing techniques do you use to make garments fit better? One of the most common knitting errors is adding the wrong amount of ease. Knitted garments should drape on our bodies, not hug them like a second skin. Skirts in particular must have enough ease to avoid clinging that gives a pull or pocketing effect in the back. If you are unsure how much ease to add, finished measurements can be taken from garments that fit you well. As an example, I usually add 4-6 inches of ease for my skirts. I always seam my garments by hand. Almost all store bought garments are sewn together with a sewing machine or serger. To achieve a true hand-finished look, you must take the time and effort to hand seam your garment panels together. Speed does not help give a nice finished look. When I assemble gore panel skirts, I latch the seams (like an afghan) to give a nice effect. I generally do a small crochet trim around the edge for a finished look on sideways skirts. How do I decide what kind of yarn I need for different garments? You have to plan ('mind knit') your garment in advance. Sometimes your yarn will 'tell' you what type of garment to knit with it. For instance, if you are planning a dressy garment or suit, use a hard finished yarn like Millor's Tepeyac or Bramwell's Artistic. For a regular everyday sweater, the softer sport weight yarns are terrific. Examples of these are Millor's Trenzado, Bramwell's Fine 4-Ply, or Forsell's Shamal. If you are a really new knitter, contact your knitting machine dealer for advice, or you can contact me. |
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